City guide · Sindh
Hala and Bhit Shah: a craft trip from Hyderabad
Two small towns north of Hyderabad hold some of Sindh's best crafts: ajrak printed in Bhit Shah, pottery and lacquer in Hala, and a shrine that brings it all together.
North of Hyderabad, on the road to Hala, a small town gathers around one of Sindh's best-loved shrines. Bhit Shah and Hala together make an easy day trip, and few days in Pakistan pack in more craft: ajrak, glazed tiles, pottery, lacquer, hand-woven cloth and quilts.
Getting there
Bhit Shah is about three hours' drive from Karachi along the National Highway; a branch road about 30 minutes beyond Hyderabad takes you into the town. [2] It's a small town in Matiari district, on the road that runs from Hala to Hyderabad. [1]
Bhit Shah: the shrine
The shrine of Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai stands in the centre of the town. It was built in 1772 under the Kalhora rulers of Sindh and later extended, [1] [2] and it's covered in traditional Sindhi kashi tiles, glazed in blue and turquoise, with mirror work in the buildings around the courtyard. [1] [2]
Come on a Thursday evening if you can, when people gather to remember the saint by reciting his poems and playing music. [1] The busiest time of all is the three-day Urs in the Islamic month of Safar. [2] Nearby, the Bhit Shah Museum has exhibits on the folk tales of his best-known work, the Shah Jo Risalo, including Sohni Mehar and Umar Marui. [1]
Bhit Shah: the ajrak
Bhit Shah is one of the towns where Sindh's ajrak is printed, along with Matiari, Hala and others. [3] One Bhit Shah workshop described a complete batch as taking around 40 days. [4] Our ajrak story walks through every step, and what to check before you buy.
Hala: pottery, lacquer, cloth and quilts
Hala, near the Indus, is home to kashi artisans who have worked there for generations. [5] Its kilns have a long history: the tiles on the domes of the Shah Jahan Mosque at Thatta were fired here. [6]
- Glazed pottery, painted by hand in cobalt blue, turquoise, purple, mustard, white and brown. A piece goes through about 20 steps, often all by one person, and spends about 20 hours in a wood-fired kiln before it's painted. [5]
- Jandi, lacquered woodwork made into lamps, boxes, vases and furniture. [5]
- Khadi, cloth hand-woven from cotton, silk and wool. [5]
- Rilli, the patchwork quilts common in Sindhi homes and often given as gifts. [5]
Buying directly matters here. Many of Hala's craft families remain poor, and some are bound to intermediaries who make them sell below market price. [5]
Planning the day: our suggestions
- Start at Hala, finish at Bhit Shah on a Thursday, so you're at the shrine for the evening music.
- Avoid the Urs if you want quiet workshops; go for it if you want the festival.
- Ask before visiting a workshop, and before photographing anyone at work.
- Turn an ajrak over before buying: a double-sided piece carries the pattern on the back too.
Questions people ask
How far is Bhit Shah from Karachi?
About three hours' drive along the National Highway. A branch road about 30 minutes beyond Hyderabad leads to the town.
When is the best time to visit Bhit Shah?
Thursday evenings, when people gather at the shrine to recite Shah Latif's poetry and play music. The three-day Urs in the month of Safar is the busiest time of all.
What can I buy in Hala?
Hand-painted glazed pottery, jandi lacquer work, hand-woven khadi cloth and rilli patchwork quilts.
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