Footwear · Punjab
The Multani khussa: Pakistan's hand-stitched shoe
A good khussa is cut, stitched and embroidered entirely by hand. Multan has long been said to make the best of them.
A traditional khussa is made entirely by hand, from curing the leather to cutting and sewing the sole and the upper. Unlike most modern shoes, no part of it needs a machine. [1] It's said that Multan's khussas are the most beautiful and best made, and the trade still lives in the cobbled streets of the old city. [1]
From village shoe to palace
Rural people wore khussas for centuries before the shoe reached the Mughal court. There it picked up a grander name, Saleem Shahi, which is linked to Saleem, the name of the emperor Jahangir. Sikh rulers Ranjit Singh and Sher Singh are shown wearing khussas in miniature paintings, and the Lahore Museum's Islamic Gallery displays old hand-made examples. [1]
The styles
| Style | What sets it apart |
|---|---|
| Saleem Shahi | Usually goat skin. Also sold under the name of the place that makes it: Multani, Bahawalpuri, Qasoori, Chakwali and others. |
| Nagra | Usually camel skin. |
| Waziraabadi | Cut-work in the leather, for a filigree effect. |
| Sharakpuri | White tilla embroidery on red, black or skin-coloured leather. |
| Multani phool wala | A women's style, along with the backless khussa slipper. |
| Hoshiarpuri | A finer women's shoe with a lower cut that covers only the toes. |
All the details in this table come from Gulf News's guide to the khussa. [1] Traditional khussas are flat, with no heel. Beaded versions with a small heel are a more recent take, worn in the evening. [1]
What tilla is
Tilla is metallic thread, gold or silver, used for the shining embroidery on formal khussas. [1] In Multan the khussa makers, khussa saaz, stitch the leather soles and the tilla-embroidered uppers by hand. [2]
Getting the fit right
Two things surprise first-time buyers. Traditionally there's no left or right shoe: both are cut the same, so they can be swapped. And sizes aren't standardised, so it's best to try them on, or to send the maker an outline of your foot. [1]
Ordering khussas from a distance: what we'd do
- Trace both feet on paper while standing, and send a photo of the tracing with a ruler beside it.
- Ask what the leather is: goat, cow or camel. It changes how the shoe feels and how long it lasts.
- Ask for a photo of the sole. Hand stitching around the edge is the sign of a hand-made pair.
The khussa has relatives across Pakistan. In the colder north, shoes like the Peshawari chappal use thicker leather. [1] Our guide to where Pakistan's crafts are made covers them.
Questions people ask
Is there a left and right khussa?
Traditionally, no: both shoes are cut the same, so they can be swapped.
How do I choose my khussa size?
Sizes aren't standardised, so try them on if you can. Buying online, send the maker a tracing of your foot rather than relying on a shoe size.
What is tilla embroidery?
Embroidery with a metallic thread called tilla, used for the shiny gold or silver patterns on formal khussas.
Know someone who makes this by hand?
We feature makers free, with links straight to their WhatsApp or Instagram. Tell us about them, or send a correction if we got something wrong.