Footwear · Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
The Peshawari chappal: how it's made and how to spot a good pair
Two crossed straps, a buckle at the heel and a sole tough enough for mountain paths: the story of Pakistan's best-loved sandal.
Few things are as recognisably Pakistani as the Peshawari chappal: two wide leather straps crossed over the foot, a strap and buckle around the heel, and a thick, hard-wearing sole. [1] It's loved by all social classes for its comfort and durability, and is worn with shalwar kameez at weddings, at Eid and every day. [2] [1]
A sandal with many names
The same sandal goes by many names depending on where it's made: kheri, Peshawari chappal, Kohati chappal, Chakwali chappal, Kaptaan chappal and more. [1] In Quetta people call it the Quetta chappal, and in Dera Ghazi Khan the Dera chappal. [3]
Its roots are older than its most famous name. The kheri was a hill-country shoe, made tough enough for rough, rocky ground, and British-era gazetteers recorded it across Attock, Jhelum, Chakwal and Rawalpindi. After 1947, Peshawar's makers refined it with softer leathers and finer finishes, and the name "Peshawari chappal" stuck. [1] Today it's made in almost every city of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, and Charsadda, Peshawari and Kohati styles are still the ones in greatest demand. [4]
How it's made
A traditional chappal is made of leather, with a sole cut from truck tyre or made of leather sewn onto a rubber sole. The materials are cheap, easy to find and very hard-wearing. [1] Designs are worked into the leather upper first; then the shoe goes onto a mould that stretches it to size. [1]
The best pairs are entirely handmade, and slow. In 2015, one of Peshawar's best-known makers told Dawn that his craftsmen took a week to finish a single pair of his top double-soled chappal. [4]
The styles
| Style | What sets it apart |
|---|---|
| Peshawari | The classic: crossed straps, heel buckle, heavy sole. Once made only in black and red, now in many colours. [4] |
| Charsadda | One of the three styles still in greatest demand in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. [4] |
| Kohati | Named after Kohat, though the pairs made in Chakwal and Attock are better known than those from Kohat itself. [3] |
| Kaptaan | A double-soled design from Peshawar's Namak Mandi, famous since 2015. [4] |
| Zari kheri | A dressier version embroidered with gold or silver thread, a speciality of Chakwal and Talagang. [3] [1] |
Within these there's enormous variety: a Peshawar trader told Dawn that around 600 different kinds of traditional chappal were being made. [4]
Namak Mandi and the Kaptaan chappal
Peshawar's old Namak Mandi market has long been the heart of the trade. Noor-ud-Din Shinwari opened his shop there in 1976, and his custom-made, double-soled sandals are now sought after by politicians, officers and celebrities. [5] In January 2015 he gave a specially made pair to Imran Khan as a wedding gift; renamed the "Kaptaan chappal", it became an instant favourite with young people. [4] [3] In 2019 he made two pairs for the Saudi crown prince's visit to Islamabad. [5]
The fame hasn't protected the old market, though. In 2015 Dawn counted 25 chappal shops left in Namak Mandi Chowk, down from about 60, with fruit and juice stalls taking their place. [4]
When a designer copied it
In 2014 the British designer Paul Smith released a sandal called "Robert" for £300. Pakistanis recognised it at once, and after a day of online outrage and a petition, the brand changed the description to say it was "inspired by the Peshawari chappal". [2] Peshawar's shopkeepers were more amused than angry: an ordinary pair cost a small fraction of that, and one maker said the glossy, thin-soled style had gone out of fashion decades earlier. [2]
Spotting a well-made pair: what we'd look for
- Feel the leather. It should be thick and supple, not plastic-shiny or stiff like card.
- Look at the stitching where the straps meet the sole: even, tight hand stitches are a good sign.
- Check the sole. A tyre sole is tougher; a leather sole is lighter and dressier. Ask which one you're getting.
- Try them on, or send a tracing. The heel strap adjusts, but the front straps don't, so they should hold your foot snugly from the first day.
- Be wary of very cheap "Peshawari" pairs. Machine-made copies with synthetic uppers look similar in photos and wear out fast.
The chappal's cousin in Punjab is the hand-stitched khussa; read our story on the Multani khussa, or see where each of Pakistan's crafts is made.
Questions people ask
What is a Peshawari chappal made of?
Leather uppers on a hard-wearing sole, traditionally cut from truck tyre or made of leather sewn onto a rubber sole. The best pairs are stitched entirely by hand.
What is the difference between a Peshawari and a Kaptaan chappal?
The Kaptaan chappal is a double-soled version of the Peshawari chappal, made in Peshawar's Namak Mandi. It became famous in 2015 after its maker gave a pair to Imran Khan.
Where is the Kohati chappal made?
The style is named after Kohat, but pairs made in Chakwal and Attock are now better known than those made in Kohat itself.
How do I know if a Peshawari chappal is good quality?
Look for thick, supple leather, even hand stitching where the straps meet the sole, and a sole that matches what you were told. Very cheap pairs with shiny synthetic uppers are usually machine-made.
Know someone who makes this by hand?
We feature makers free, with links straight to their WhatsApp or Instagram. Tell us about them, or send a correction if we got something wrong.
Sources
- Wikipedia: Kheri (footwear)
- Dawn (AFP): Peshawar chappal-makers say Paul Smith design "outdated" (2014)
- Dawn: Imran Khan's choice of footwear gives a boost to Kohati chappal (2018)
- Dawn: Kaptaan special chapal goes online as it gains popularity (2015)
- Arab News Pakistan: Famous Pakistani cobbler crafts shoes for crown prince (2019)